Connect with us

Latest News

New cosmetics target consumers across gender spectrum

Published

on

Every morning Lidia Brown applies her “war paint.” It consists of sparkly black eyeliner, a dab of pink lip gloss and a smear of BB cream. It has been a year since she began her gender transition, and the New York University sophomore said makeup helps her feel more comfortable in her own skin.

Brown is part of a growing number of transgender, gender-nonconforming and male-identified people who are seeking out gender-inclusive makeup products, and companies — both old and new — are responding to their demand.

Four makeup products from Foremen. Foremen's products are designed for cisgender men.
Four makeup products from Foremen. Foremen’s products are designed for cisgender men. Courtesy of Andrew Foreman

About 30 percent of Generation Z “beauty consumers indicate that they have used a genderless beauty product,” according to Lauren Goodsit, a global beauty analyst at market research company Mintel.

“The younger generation is both tolerant and open-minded. Their values and attitudes pave the way for a new wave of brands that are inclusive of both men and women,” Goodsit told NBC News.

While a number of legacy brands are using their marketing campaigns to usher in gender-inclusivity, several new makeup brands are launching products specifically targeting transgender women, gender-nonconforming people and cisgender (non-transgender) men.

New York-based beauty brand Fluide, which launched in January 2018, offers “makeup for all gender expressions, gender identities and skin tones,” according to its website. Its mission statement asserts the company was “created with the belief that makeup is a tool of transformation and a powerful means of self-actualization.”

Among Fluide’s models is gender-nonconforming advocate and writer Jacob Tobia, who sports a full face of makeup and a visible 5 O’Clock shadow on the company’s website.

Fluide co-founder Laura Kraber said her company “wants to evolve the mainstream conception of beauty by promoting positive self-image.”

Across the pond, London-based makeup artist Jessica Blackler, 21, launched the first makeup line in the U.K. specifically targeted to the transgender community.

Blackler said she was inspired to create JECCA Makeup in 2017 due to the “crazy” amount of social media requests she received from transgender people across the U.K. asking for makeup tips.

“Many wanted to know how to do eyeshadow or how to hide beard stubble,” Blackler said.

A 2017 campaign featuring JECCA's Correct and Conceal Palette.
A 2017 campaign featuring JECCA’s Correct and Conceal Palette.Courtesy of Jecca Blackler

First she started offering makeup lessons to trans women to help with some of their unique makeup concerns, but then she decided to go a step further and create products specifically for the community.

JECCA Makeup can be used by anyone, but Blackler said its Correct and Conceal Palette, which retails for $24, was specifically formulated by chemists to banish the blue-green undertones that result from facial hair shadows. According to Blackler, her peach-toned palette is the first concealer in the U.K. market to tackle this common issue faced by many in the trans community.

Andrew Grella, founder of Canadian makeup company Formen, said his makeup line is created by men for men. In an interview with NBC News, Grella said he wanted to fill a gap in the beauty market, a market overwhelmingly catered to the beauty needs of cisgender women.

Since launching in 2015, Grella said that his online sales have increased by 200 percent.

Andrew Grella, CEO of Foremen Makeup, has makeup applied underneath his eyes.
Andrew Grella, CEO of Foremen Makeup, has makeup applied underneath his eyes.Courtesy of Andrew Foreman

While many men and women share similar beauty issues, Foremen said his products are engineered to tackle skin issues unique to cisgender men. Foreman’s $35 Invisible Blotting Powder attempts to “control excess oil that accumulate on the face.” Men sweat twice as much as women, according to The International Dermal Institute.

When asked about the unique skin needs of cisgender men, University of Miami dermatologist Dr. Shasa Hu said “most men have a higher density of sebaceous (sweat) glands and produce more oil than women.” This, she said, means that when men apply foundation, they might have a harder time making the foundation last due to overactive sweat glands.

While a number of legacy beauty companies — like L’Oreal, Mac and Covergirl — have used marketing to show their gender-inclusivity, a few have done so through products. For example, Tom Ford has a concealer for men; Clinique has a men’s face bronzer; and Calvin Klein sells “manscara.”

The global male grooming market is currently estimated to be worth $21 billion a year, and it is expected to reach $29 billion by 2024, according to market research company Statista.

When it comes to makeup, not everyone is convinced there is a need for different products based on one’s gender identity or gender expression. Among them is Paul Heaton, owner of U.K.-based makeup and styling studio Born, which specializes in “trans beauty and feminization.”

“There is no difference in the makeup I use on my clients than any cisgendered woman would use,” Heaton said. “I use a mix of high-end brands, such as MAC, Urban Decay, Bobbie Brown and Illamasqua, along with drugstore products.”

Rather than applying several of layers of foundation to cover clients’ facial hair shadows, Heaton said he uses a color-correction technique where he applies pink hues under the foundation in order to cover the blue-gray hues.

One of Heaton’s makeup tricks is to always use a “dense, round brush” when applying foundation. “This gives a better finish, as a trans woman’s skin will be a different texture than a cisgender woman,” Heaton said.

Dr. Hu, the Miami dermatologist, said, “When a person undergoes hormone treatment, they begin to have higher levels of estrogen, and a lot of times their hair growth will decrease.” However, Dr. Hu added, even with estrogen, most trans women will not see a significant difference in skin texture and complexion.

Brown, the New York University student, said she finds the burgeoning market for gender-inclusive makeup products encouraging. While she cherishes some of her beloved makeup products, like her sparkly eyeliner, she said she still has a hard time finding a concealer that works for her skin.

“I want those days to be over,” Brown lamented, “the days of going to multiple makeup stores and always leaving empty-handed.”

With products on the market geared toward consumers other than cisgender women, Brown said she feels like “someone is looking out for people like me.”

FOLLOW NBC OUT ON TWITTER, FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM



Source link

Latest News

Google threatens to block search engine in Australia if forced to pay for news | Science & Tech News

Published

on

Google has threatened to block its search engine in Australia if it is forced to pay media outlets for their news content.

Both Google and social media giant Facebook – which also opposes the rules and has threatened to remove news from its feed for Australian users – are fighting government plans for a new digital news code.

It would make tech giants negotiate payments with local publishers and broadcasters, and a government-appointed arbitrator would decide the price if they fail to strike a deal.

Facebook
Image:
Facebook also opposes the new digital news code in Australia

“Coupled with the unmanageable financial and operational risk if this version of the code were to become law, it would give us no real choice but to stop making Google Search available in Australia,” Mel Silva, the company’s managing director for Australia and New Zealand, told a Senate inquiry into the bill.

“And that would be a bad outcome not only for us, but also for the Australian people, media diversity, and the small businesses who use our products every day.”

Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison immediately hit back, saying “we don’t respond to threats”.

Ms Silva said the company was willing to pay a wide and diverse group of news publishers for the value they added, but not under the rules currently proposed, which includes payments for links and snippets.

She suggested a series of tweaks to the bill, adding: “We feel there is a workable path forward.”

Simon Milner, a Facebook vice president, said the sheer volume of deals it would have to strike would be unworkable.

Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison
Image:
Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison has dismissed Google’s threat

Google dominates internet searches in Australia, with Ms Silva telling senators about 95% are done through the company.

Mr Morrison told reporters in Brisbane: “Australia makes our rules for things you can do in Australia.

“That’s done in our parliament. It’s done by our government. And that’s how things work here in Australia.”

He added: “People who want to work with that in Australia, you’re very welcome. But we don’t respond to threats.”

Australia announced the legislation last month after an investigation found Google and Facebook held too much market power in the media industry, a situation it said posed a potential threat to a well-functioning democracy.

Subscribe to the Daily podcast on Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Spotify, Spreaker

Facebook and Alphabet, the parent company of Google, are among the most prominent American technology companies.

The US government this week asked Australia to scrap the proposed laws, and suggested it should pursue a voluntary code instead.

But The Australia Institute, an independent think tank, said politicians should stand firm against the tech giants.

“Google’s testimony today is part of a pattern of threatening behaviour that is chilling for anyone who values our democracy,” said Peter Lewis, the director of the institute’s Centre for Responsible Technology.

Source link

Continue Reading

Latest News

Julie Payette: Queen’s representative in Canada quits amid claims she bullied staff to tears | World News

Published

on

Canada’s governor general – the Queen’s representative – has resigned amid allegations she presided over a toxic work environment in which staff were bullied to tears.

Julie Payette quit just hours after senior officials received the findings of an independent inquiry into reports of verbal abuse and bullying by the 57-year-old.

It followed a report by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC) in which dozens of anonymous staff claimed Ms Payette threw “tantrums in the office and on foreign trips, berated staff to the point of tears and called one employee’s work ‘s***'”.

Canada's Governor General Julie Payette
Image:
Canada’s Governor General Julie Payette has resigned amid claims she bullied staff

One told CBC that Rideau Hall – the residence and workplace of the governor general – had become a “house of horrors” under Ms Payette’s leadership, causing long-time staff to leave in droves.

“I have come to the conclusion that a new governor general should be appointed. Canadians deserve stability in these uncertain times,” Ms Payette said in a statement announcing her departure, adding she was sorry for tensions that had arisen with staff.

Prime Minister Justin Trudeau – who picked her for the role in October 2017 for a five-year term – said the workplace concerns raised by staff during the review would be addressed.

He notably did not thank her – having described her last year when the probe was launched as “an excellent governor general”.

Ms Payette was formerly the country’s chief astronaut and the first Canadian to serve on the International Space Station.

Potential candidates for governor general are supposed to be vetted by a special committee, a step Mr Trudeau chose to ignore when he recommended Ms Payette for the job.

Canada's Prime Minister Justin Trudeau
Image:
Canada’s Prime Minister Justin Trudeau has been criticised over Ms Payette’s initial appointment to the post

“The colossal failure of Ms Payette’s term falls squarely on his shoulders,” said Don Davies, a member of parliament for the opposition New Democratic Party.

Richard Wagner, chief justice of the Supreme Court, will temporarily take over Ms Payette’s duties until she is replaced.

The governor general – the representative of the country’s head of state, Queen Elizabeth II – has a largely ceremonial job such as swearing in governments and formally signing legislation, but can on rare occasions be asked to settle constitutional questions.

Source link

Continue Reading

Latest News

The Investigation: Why the story of Kim Wall’s submarine murder ignores her killer | Ents & Arts News

Published

on

On 16 January 2018, more than five months after the man who murdered and dismembered journalist Kim Wall’s body was arrested, authorities were finally able to charge him.

In a case that had become known around the world as the “submarine murder”, that charge was the result of a painstaking, dogged investigation by police in Denmark.

Officers knew from the start they had the right suspect but faced a near impossible task to find what they hoped would provide the grim proof – Ms Wall’s body parts sunken somewhere at the bottom of the waters of the Koge Bay.

Kim Wall had travelled extensively to report on social and economic issues
Image:
Kim Wall was a talented journalist who had been on assignment when she was murdered

After boarding the homemade submarine UC3 Nautilus on the evening of 10 August the previous year, the 30-year-old Swedish journalist, who had gone to the vessel to interview its owner, was never seen alive again. At 11am on 11 August, the sub foundered and its creator was rescued at sea, alone.

The details of what happened next have been well documented, with the case making international headlines almost immediately. But those headlines told one side of the story, with many focusing on the “eccentric” killer and his background: what had driven him to such a gruesome crime?

Now, in a gripping account of the police’s Herculean efforts to get a conviction, the other side is being told in new drama, The Investigation. The series is written and directed by Tobias Lindholm, one of the co-creators of the critically acclaimed Danish drama Borgen and who more recently worked on FBI criminal psychology drama Mindhunter.

“The case was covered widely in both local and international press and the coverage focused a lot on the fascination or the scare or the thrill of the crime that slowly showed itself,” Lindholm tells Sky News.

“What had happened out there? And it became like a – at least locally, but in some international media as well – kind of an obsession with this crime and with the perpetrator, since he had some sort of interesting background story and since it happened in a homebuilt submarine. I mean, there was a lot of elements that were easy to be fascinated by. So we were, all of us, fascinated.”

Lindholm says his thoughts about the case were consumed by how Ms Wall’s loved ones – her parents, the boyfriend she had been due to move to China with just days after her murder – must be feeling seeing the non-stop coverage. “Why are we so obsessed with this terrible, gruesome act?”

In an unrelated meeting with Jens Moller, then head of homicide for Copenhagen police, he learned what had gone on behind the scenes; the meticulous investigation by detectives and prosecutors, the physically draining work of the divers who spent months searching the dark seabed in freezing temperatures; the cadaver dogs from Sweden and scientists analysing currents and wind speeds and directions, who eventually were able to successfully pinpoint the best locations to search.

Jens Moller (SOREN MALLING) in The Investigation. Pic: BBC / misofilm & outline film / Per Arnesen
Image:
Jens Moller is played by Soren Malling, who starred in Scandi noir drama The Killing. Pic: BBC/misofilm & outline film/Per Arnesen
Danish Police investigator Jens Moller Monday evening Aug. 21. 2017 in front of the Police Head Quarter, Politigaarden, Copenhagen, Denmark. The police received Monday a notification of a female in the water south of southwest Amager. Pic: AP
Image:
The real Jens Moller, pictured giving a statement in the days following Ms Wall’s death

Meeting Mr Moller gave Lindholm “a very different story”, he says. “A story about human sacrifice, a story about people who put their own life on pause to solve this case, a story about friendship and grief and victory and all these elements that were never even touched in the press.

“And then Jens told me one thing that became very key: he told me that he had never interrogated the perpetrator himself. He had other investigators to do that and then he will analyse the answers, come up with new questions, but never go in there, into the room. And with him saying that I realised that I could make not a true crime show, but a show we could call true investigation.”

So The Investigation, a six-part BBC2 series with a generic title – “we probably could have come up with more fascinating titles, that would point more directly to the crime, but I liked the idea that we would just… be very dry about it” – does not feature Ms Wall’s murderer at all.

He never appears on screen, his name is never uttered, there is no time devoted to his account of what happened, which changed constantly in the months following his arrest. First, he had dropped the journalist off on land unharmed, then she had died accidentally, later he admitted dismembering her but not to killing her. However, we only hear this in the series from the police.

In an era where true crime shows dominate TV schedules, with much debate about the airtime focused on killers and their depravity, and failure to give victims a voice, it is a novel but no less watchable or compelling approach. Despite taking place in the waterway separating Denmark and Sweden, reminiscent of thriller series The Bridge, Scandi noir it is not.

The series starts pretty much “when the case lands on Jens Moller’s table”, Lindholm says. “And by making that decision and by not using flashbacks, I would liberate myself from all of that… with the decision of never meeting, never hearing and never mentioning the perpetrator, but only letting him be a source of confusion in the investigation.

“That’s three decisions that already by just making [them], I would liberate myself from the burden of genre convention.”

The Investigation. Pic: BBC / misofilm & outline film
Image:
The series shows the hours spent searching the sea. Pic: BBC/misofilm & outline film

Mr Moller is played by Soren Malling, who also starred in another Scandi noir favourite, The Killing. He is the hero of the piece, albeit with no fuss or sensation, just a portrayal of a determined, efficient officer who gets the job done, even when the search seemed futile.

“We won’t be able to say what would have happened, if…” says Lindholm. “But I do believe that Jens Moller’s stubbornness and his honesty and his pledge towards [Ms Wall’s parents] Ingrid and Joachim made him just continue, even though a lot of people would have stopped or at least would have started to use very fewer resources on this.

“The divers’ efforts… it’s just amazing. And if you look at the area that they cover, and if you understand that it’s dark, you can only see one metre in front of you and there you are on the bottom of the ocean, going 100 metres in that direction, then 100 metres back, then a new square to dive, then a new route. It’s just incredible. So, yeah, their work was second to none.”

The Investigation has, perhaps unusually, been made with the full backing of Ingrid and Joachim Wall. Lindholm had “not written a word” before meeting them and they were “part of the whole development”, not having complete control but reading scripts and suggesting changes when scenes weren’t quite right. Their real dog, Iso, even plays himself in the show, and they were behind the scenes for his days on set.

Their support is testament to how sensitively and truthfully they feel the story has been told, especially as it comes so soon after Ms Wall’s death. Lindholm says there was no question of making the series without their blessing.

Joachim Wall (ROLF LASSGARD), Ingrid Wall (PERNILLA AUGUST) in The Investigation. Pic: BBC / misofilm & outline film / Per Arnesen
Image:
Joachim and Ingrid Wall are played by Rolf Lassgard and Pernilla August. Pic: BBC/misofilm & outline film/Per Arnesen

“I felt that the story Jens told me needed to be told right now, because we needed to be reminded of the quality of collective strength,” he says. “I feel that our time is full of break-ups and chaos and a culture that is more and more focused on the one person’s achievement.

“This case, with the details that Jens gave me… proved a world that is actually working. It proved a society that works, it proved the system does work, it proves that if we stand together, if people do their best, if we believe in society, if we believe in playing our part in society, we can succeed. And that would not have been as interesting to tell 10 years from now, because then it would have been a reflection on the world of yesterday. I needed it to be a reflection on the world today…

“Had I done a show about the perpetrator and had we done a story about the crime and being fascinated with it, I would say it’s way too soon. But had we done this show 10 years from now, I would say it was way too late. So in this case, by making it about the investigation in our time, proving and showing people a story that they didn’t know, a story that proved that our police officers, that our divers, that our system works, made it relevant and necessary to tell.

“That was the conversation I had with Ingrid and Joachim the first time I met them. They totally agree. Their reason to be in this is because they’re so grateful that all these people, you know, put their own life on pause and went out and actually [made] a difference. And hopefully the show shows how difficult it was. A difficulty and a battle that we don’t really know exists, but it did.”

Members of The Danish Emergency Management Agency (DEMA) assist police at Kalvebod Faelled in Copenhagen on August 23, 2017 in search of missing bodyparts of journalist Kim Wall close to the site where her torso was found on, August 21
Image:
Members of The Danish Emergency Management Agency (DEMA) assisted police in the search of the sea

In one scene, Ingrid Wall, played by Pernilla August (Star Wars) is comforted by neighbours who bring flowers to her door.

“I had done another scene where [Ingrid] would go to the supermarket and everybody would look away, because I had an idea about Scandinavian society being cold and people not knowing how to reach out and be brave enough to touch each other,” says Lindholm. “I imagine the scene where she felt isolated, going out to a community and suddenly everybody looked away because they were scared that they would say the wrong thing…

“I sent that screenplay to them and Ingrid called me and said, ‘We like it, but you got something wrong. We never felt isolated. We only felt to be embraced and felt the love, the support, the help from our local community’.”

The script was changed. “As soon as I had written it, I could definitely see that it made more sense. I just didn’t have that idea, that was all Ingrid being honest. So they had helped me a lot.”

Following their daughter’s death, the Walls, also journalists themselves, set up the Kim Wall Memorial Fund awarding grants to young female journalists; the legacy of her work which often told the stories of those who weren’t able to do so themselves.

A heart-shaped memorial, created from stones and pebbles on the beach, also features in the series. “I wanted to recreate one on another beach and Ingrid insisted that we would film that one, because she wanted the people who had done it back then to understand how much it meant to them.”

Lindholm is still in contact with the couple daily, he says. “I think Ingrid and Joachim enjoyed coming to set and then feeling, seeing it and understanding how serious we were about their story. They felt comfortable about that.”

It seems crass to talk about spoilers in a story such as this but, without giving too much away, there is a speech given by Ingrid Wall at the end of the series. The couple were on set to see August deliver it.

Jakob Buch-Jepsen (PILOU ASBAEK) in The Investigation. Pic: BBC / misofilm & outline film / Henrik Ohsten
Image:
Prosecutor Jakob Buch-Jepsen is played by Game Of Thrones and Borgen star Pilou Asbaek. Pic: BBC/misofilm & outline film/Henrik Ohsten

“I wrote that together with Ingrid,” says Lindholm. “I asked her, what do you want… If you could get the last word in this whole story, in this whole media circus, what do you want to say?”

“When we shot that scene, I had Ingrid and Joachim by my monitor… that was kind of an interesting and, for me, emotionally challenging experience. But I think that Ingrid and Joachim were probably the coolest of us all. They are very realistic, and very aware of the choices they make, and they are very responsible to watch each other. I never felt them struggling on set.

“I definitely felt that once in a while, while we were writing and while I was, not interviewing, but talking to them about different ways and the whole preparation, I could feel that we needed to go through a conversation that wasn’t nice to have, but it was never an emotional, brutal experience at all. They are very strong and they’re very realistic about their own situation.”

It must be strange and difficult to see your real life portrayed as a drama on screen, especially under such unthinkable circumstances. But the Walls feel proud, says Lindholm. Proud of their daughter, whose award-winning investigative journalism is highlighted in the show, and proud that those involved in bringing her killer to justice are now being celebrated.

“They feel that it is what it should be, a celebration of the unsung heroes, the ones that helped them through the darkness, the ones that brought their daughter back home, the ones that, you know, without getting rich or getting famous off it, just did a tremendous job to help them,” says Lindholm.

“I believe Joachim said to me that he felt it was very close to a documentary in the sense of how realistic and how precise it is in the descriptions.

“Remember, it’s not a story about Kim, it’s not a story about Ingrid and Joachim, it’s a story about Ingrid and Joachim’s life when it crosses the investigation. But they, together with Jens and [prosecutor] Jakob Buch-Jepsen, who’s played by Pilou [Asbaek, Game Of Thrones], all feel that it’s very honest and very accurate and all feel proud that we did it this way.”

Danish inventor Peter Madsen is on trial for the murder of journalist Kim Wall
Image:
Ms Wall’s legacy lives on in a memorial fund set up to provide grants to young female journalists

On 25 April 2018, following a trial, Ms Wall’s murderer was found guilty and sentenced to life in prison. Sky News covered the case extensively. For those who didn’t follow it, through Sky News or elsewhere, his name is easy enough to Google. Writing this article about the series raised the question of whether or not his identity, just as in the show, could be ignored when it is clearly so public.

Taking Lindholm’s final thoughts, it was easy to decide.

“I hope that fiction more than anything offers the opportunity to be somebody else for a while,” he says. “In this case, we are given the opportunity to be Jens Moller, to be Ingrid and Joachim. I do believe that… being in their perspective for these six episodes can change our perspective of the world.

“Maybe we realise the responsibility we have as media consumers: what do we click on, how do we treat cases like this, and what are we fascinated by? Hopefully, it can challenge the convention that the killer, almost by nature, is fascinating or interesting. And hopefully it will inspire us to see that together, we can achieve great things.”

The Investigation starts on BBC Two on 22 January and will also be available on iPlayer

Source link

Continue Reading

Trending